BHA

This substance may cause skin irritation and eye irritation.

Using a product with this ingredient indicates you are concerned about either or both of the following:

• Skin aging including things like fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tones, eye bags and lines, skin sagging and mor;
• Acne including either pimples, breakouts, blackheads, whiteheads or other forms of acne.

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA): This is a group of acids that are effective when it comes to exfoliating skin, to remove dead skin cells and unplug pores to treat acne. It is also an antioxidant and promotes glowing, smooth, and toned skin, improving its firmness and minimizing the signs of aging.

Beta-hydroxy acid (BHA)

There is only one BHA and it’s called salicylic acid. This is a versatile ingredient that can refine pore size, soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve the skin tone, and promote a glowing complexion. It can cause skin irritation including redness, burning, itching, pain, and possibly scarring. People with darker-colored skin are at a higher risk of scarring pigment changes.

Citric Acid

Citric acid is an exfoliating alpha hydroxy acid. This organic acid is found in citric fruits and may help improve the appearance of aged skin, boost skin firmness, improve skin elasticity, and help exfoliate skin to unclog pores and treat acne. It is usually considered safe for all skin types, except for those with known allergies or sensitive skin. Individuals with oily skin can also benefit from citric acid

Glycolic Acid has a small molecule that can pass through the skin barrier and weaken the intercellular adhesions, which means it removes dead skin cells from the skin’s epidermal surface and reduces dry patches and flakiness.

It is known to improve the texture of skin because it clears dead skin cells, and ingrown hairs, and reduces the appearance of pores.  It also decreases inflammation and works against acne-causing bacteria. It also stimulates collagen production and makes your skin look more youthful.

Using high concentrations of glycolic acid without guidance can cause burns and damage your skin. It can also dry out skin and make it susceptible to sunburn. There is also a possibility of skin redness and other issues when mixing it with other skincare products.

Lactic Acid works on the skin’s surface and breaks apart dead skin cells on the outer skin layer, unclogging pores and stopping breakouts from triggering. The best thing about this exfoliant is its moisturizing features, making it a gentler alternative to other ingredients that work to unclog pores and minimize breakouts.

Malic Acid exfoliates dead cells on the outermost layer of the skin and promotes cell turnover, leaving skin brighter and more even, which also helps to keep pores unclogged by breaking down some of the ‘glue’ that holds all of these cells (technical term: keratinocytes) together, i.

Malic acid is a larger molecule than other alpha hydroxy acids, which decreases its penetration into the skin, and makes it gentler on the skin.

Due to its antioxidant and exfoliation benefits, it’s commonly used for a range of skin concerns, including fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, acne, large pores, milia, warts, calluses, and more.

Mandelic Acid has a larger molecular size and can’t penetrate the skin. It works on skin’s surface making it a gentler alternative. The antibacterial properties of mandelic acid reduce inflammatory acne (cysts, papules, pustules and is less likely to cause irritations since it’s among the gentlest of the alpha-hydroxy acids.

Niacinamide contains immense ability to attract and hold water on the skin, and that gives your skin hydration to make your sebaceous glands make less sebum, reducing pimples. Niacinamide also has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory effects, to help diminish acne.  It is a derivative of vitamin B3 and fights against free radical damage, to brighten the dark spots, and control acne. 

As an antioxidant it will repair the skin cells. It is also efficient in treating pigmentation, rosacea and wrinkles. The anti-inflammatory properties help to calm irritated skin.

Retin- A is a prescription-strength topical cream or gel. It is derived from vitamin A, and works by speeding up the life cycle of skin cells. It makes them divide and die faster so newer, healthier skin cells can come to the surface.

Retinaldehyde has been proven to be effective in helping boost cell turnover, allowing dying and dead skin cells to slough away at a faster rate, which reveals new, healthy skin cells.

Retinoid treats acne. The main side effects include skin irritation, such as redness, peeling, and burning. They can also make skin more sensitive to sunlight. These side effects go away once the medication is stopped.

Retinol is a vitamin A derivative, that helps pores unclog, reducing breakouts. Its small molecular weight allows it to penetrate beneath the skin’s upper layer, removing dirt, dead cells, and excess oil from pores. In turn, this leads to fewer chances of breakouts.

Salicylic Acid is the strongest beta-hydroxy acid (BHA), and its oil-soluble structure makes it able to penetrate the skin, where it dissolves oil and dead cells that clog the pores. But salicylic acid might not work for everyone struggling with acne. 

Vitamin C  is a multi-tasker. It fights free radicals — molecules known to contribute to acne and the creation of fine lines, wrinkles and sagging skin.   It is a potent antioxidant that plays an important role in the anti-aging process and helps boost collagen production. It helps to brighten and boost the skin, promoting youthful and glowing appearance and reduces skin discoloration.

There are different types of vitamin C and some are more effective for the skin than the others.  Vitamin C is even more effective in combination with other anti-aging ingredients; a popular combo is that with vitamin E.

Vitamin C may also speed up the healing of breakouts and fill scars, and tighten skin, thanks to its ability to boost collagen production.

Overview

Many skincare, cosmetics and hair care products contain water and when water is present, it contributes to the growth of mold, bacteria and fungi. Even if the formulation doesn’t contain water, cosmetics are often kept in humid environments and may be contaminated when your hands touch the contents. Preservatives help to prevent the growth of these dangerous substances.

Preservatives used in skincare fall under three  categories- chemical, natural and synthetic.

Chemical preservatives, the have been found to be the most harmful and should be avoided. Chemical preservatives include formaldehyde, parabens, bromopol, DMDN hydantoin, Glyoxal, Imidazolidinyl urea, polyoxymethylene, Quaternium-15, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, zinc pyrithione, inorganic sulphates, sulphites and sulphides.

Natural preservatives that are considered a safer option include honey, beeswax, vitamin E, Ascorbic acid, commonly known as vitamin C, essential oils, bentonite clay, thyme, tea tree oil and others that all have antibacterial properties..

Synthetic preservatives include tocopheryl acetate, a man made version of vitamin E, and food grade sodium benzoate. Other preservatives come from alcohol, such as ethanol, grape alcohol, benzyl alcohol and witch hazel.  

A 2018 article in Chemical & Engineering News notes that traditional preservative suppliers are turning to natural preservatives as an alternative to chemical ones to address consumer awareness about the dangers of other preservative dangers..

Some of the most dangerous preservatives include the following:

BHA (Butylated Hydroxyanisole): have been labeled to be endocrine disruptors and potentially carcinogenic by the EU, while both are still recognized as safe by the US. BHA was fed to fish larvae and it was shown that it caused liver cancer in the adult fish. BHT is known to cause metabolic stress, growth retardation, and drastic weight loss. BHT has cancer-causing elements and is regarded as a possible carcinogen.

BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene): have been labeled to be endocrine disruptors and potentially carcinogenic by the EU, while both are still recognized as safe by the US. BHA was fed to fish larvae and it was shown that it caused liver cancer in the adult fish. BHT is known to cause metabolic stress, growth retardation, and drastic weight loss. BHT has cancer-causing elements and is regarded as a possible carcinogen.

Bromopol: is known to cause severe irritation of the eyes, skin and the respiratory tract. Bronopol is particularly detrimental to the liver and the stomach. Bronopol negatively affects the kidneys, thyroids and adrenal glands.

DMDN Hydantoin: A study by researchers in the Netherlands found that an increased use of products with DMDM hydantoin heightened the risk of developing dermatitis and itching. DMDM hydantoin may affect the skin, the respiratory system, the eyes, nose, ears and throat, and the central nervous system.  It is subject to several class-action lawsuits against Johnson & Johnson and Unilever claiming exposure to this preservative in shampoos and conditioners has led to hair loss.  led to hair loss.

Formaldehyde: Formaldehyde is banned from use in cosmetics and toiletries in Japan and Sweden; in the EU, it is restricted in personal care products. Formaldehyde is registered as a known human carcinogen with the US National Toxicology Program. Many manufacturers have voluntarily removed it for use as a preservative due to the fact that it causes tiredness, insomnia, coughing, respiratory problems and cancer.

Glyoxal: Glyoxal is a preservative that works by forming formaldehyde in cosmetic products. Formaldehyde is banned from use in cosmetics and toiletries in Japan and Sweden; in the EU, it is restricted in personal care products. Formaldehyde is registered as a known human carcinogen with the US National Toxicology Program. Many manufacturers have voluntarily removed it for use as a preservative due to the fact that it causes tiredness, insomnia, coughing, respiratory problems and cancer.

Imidazolidinyl Urea is a formaldehyde-releasing ingredient. The American Academy of Dermatology noted diazolidinyl urea as a cause of contact dermatitis.

Parabens:  According to the Breast Cancer Prevention Partners, parabens are endocrine disruptors. Studies have shown that parabens can affect normal breast cells and potentially influence their abnormal growth, leading to increased risk for breast cancer. The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics (CSC) reports that parabens have also been linked to reproductive, immunological, neurological and skin irritation problems.

In 2014, the EU banned five types of parabens, citing possible risks to human health.

Phenoxyethanol
Exposure to phenoxyethanol has been linked to reactions ranging from eczema[2] to severe, life-threatening allergic reactions. In 2008, the FDA warned consumers not to purchase Mommy’s Bliss Nipple Cream. Phenoxyethanol, found in the cream, was depressing the central nervous system and causing vomiting and diarrhea in breast feeding infants.

Quaternium-15 is a known human skin toxicant and allergen and possible eye irritant. It is also a formaldehyde-releasing preservative.  Formaldehyde is banned from use in cosmetics and toiletries in Japan and Sweden; in the EU, it is restricted in personal care products. Formaldehyde is registered as a known human carcinogen with the US National Toxicology Program. Many manufacturers have voluntarily removed it for use as a preservative due to the fact that it causes tiredness, insomnia, coughing, respiratory problems and cancer.

Sulphates, Sulphites, Sulphides are highly toxic. A study was undertaken on rats where the rats were injected with a couple of these toxic preservatives. The rats died within 3 hours of administration.

Zinc Pyrithione was proven to cause contact dermatitis in those with Psoriasis. This implies that those with other similarly sensitive skins would also develop worse skin conditions from using cosmetics containing Zinc Pyrithione.

Conclusion

Not all preservatives are bad, and not all natural preservatives are good. Preservatives are necessary to prevent illness and allergies, and as a member of AchieveBeauty we will learn about the skin and hair concerns you want to address and we will recommend the appropriate products to address those concerns with a full ingredient disclosure.

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